
I have been searching for the perfect black pleated skirt for three years, and I thought I found it at Neiman Marcus last week. It was $400, which I know is ridiculous, but I bought it anyway, because I thought of it as an investment piece. It would last a lifetime. Then I got it home.
Something possessed me to look at the label, and I saw it was made in China. I don't know whether I grew a conscience overnight or what, but it pissed me off. I'm not an anti-China zealot. In fact, I'm not much of a zealot at all. Zealots or extremists of any persuasion or political perspective scare me. You know, why can't we all just get along?
Sweatshops
But I started thinking about why our clothes are made in China. But as I began to read about it, I never could get to the core of my concern. It's not one thing or even two. At first I thought it was about sweatshops. Nobody reasonable wants to support horrible working conditions anywhere, and China's sweatshops are renowned. But a reasonable person would also have to assume not every apparel manufacturer in China is disreputable. But how will you know? Who has time to check?
The next leap is to imagine that buying American will make a difference. However, made in the USA does not necessarily mean sweatshop-free. Forever 21 and others have been tarred and feathered for shady ethics and for violating our nation's labor laws. That said, I'm proud to say we do have labor laws, so it gives me some comfort to buy clothes made in the USA. If you can find them.
It turns out you can shop for American-made clothing at Nordstrom online by using keyword USA in the search box. I did that, and then narrowed my search to women's apparel and got these results. Some of the designers include Jason Wu, Trina Turk and Nanette Lepore -- and none of it is inexpensive. Even if you know a designer manufactures clothes made in the USA, that doesn't mean ALL that designer's clothes are made in the USA. You have to check each label. Lots of online stores say "imported." If it's imported from Europe, they usually say.
Follow the money
As I peel back the onion, I think, well, European clothes are of excellent quality and are made by skilled craftsmen who earn a living wage. Part of the problem with that scenario is that European clothes are usually very expensive and even famous French and Italian designers now manufacture their fashions in China. This article surprised me more than anything -- some clothes have the enviable label Made in Italy, but they are made in Italy by Chinese immigrants who flagrantly skirt the law and turn out low-end clothes for the mass market.
Am I worried about quality and value or the ability of workers around the world to earn a living wage? All of the above. And what about the economics of this shift? If high-end designers are manufacturing their clothes in China to save money, why am I still paying $400 for a skirt? Methinks they are not passing along any savings to either the workers or the consumers. It's not that I'm turning into a Marxinista, but who gets the money?
A national competency
Do I care that America gave away an industry and that our economy is in the tank? Yes. I look at that beautiful cashmere coat I bought last year at a thrift shop. Here's what I wrote then:
There's a tiny little International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union label inside. I think about the hard-working American women who made this fine garment years and years ago and compare it to the crap I buy today that falls apart after one season. It makes me want to hunt down more classic vintage pieces.
I went and looked at one of my favorite jackets. It's six years old and still looks new. It's by the French designer Bernard Zins. Made in France. Then I thought about this really cool imported dress I had in high school. It was made out of a beautiful Indian fabric and was made in India. I felt the same way about that dress as I feel about my Parisian jacket, and I think that's because the dress was made in the country of origin. Somebody in India was proud of that dress.
It's complicated. It's not that China or any other cheap-labor country is bad. For most of America, inexpensive clothes are a blessing. There are other positives. Free market and all that. Supposedly 55 cents of every dollar spent on a Chinese item comes back to the U.S. I'm not a very good zealot, and I'm not sure I have the wherewithall or even the desire to boycott imported clothes. Aside from the high-end stuff, the prices are irresistible. I do know I will try to get away from this idea of disposable fashion. I don't really need seven pairs of shorts. Buying used and vintage clothing is another good way to put the brakes on the fast-fashion machine.
I said at the beginning of this ramble that I wasn't sure what was at the core of my concern. Sure, some of it is snobbishness about quality, but the overriding emotion I feel is a profound sense of loss. I have served our country in uniform, and warts and all, I love America. We had skilled workers who fought bravely to revolutionize working conditions and made beautiful clothes for the people of this country -- it was an incredible national competency, and we gave it away.
A thong to be proud of
Let me conclude this too-long post with a story.
Right after I woke up with a conscience, I returned the skirt to Neiman's. I browsed lingerie while I was there, as I was in search of a new Chantelle bra. Chantelle is a French company, but when I looked at the label I saw the bras are now made in China. I was examining the tag, and a sales woman approached me and asked if anything was wrong. I said, no, I was just surprised to see Chantelle bras are now made in China. She said, "You're kidding!"
Together we went through all the bras in the Neiman's lingerie department, and we couldn't find a one that was made in the country of origin. She said, wow, is anything made in America anymore? My eyes lit up, and I said, "Yes! Hanky Panky!"
We raced over to the table stacked with lacy thongs, and she picked one up to examine the label. And there in tiny little print it said made in USA.
She clutched the thong and held it to her chest. She said, "I know it's just a thong, but it makes me so proud."
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